Fixed point belay technique

@FrancisStPierre - 319 Posts

Created: 13 years ago

There has been a lot of talk in the industry lately about fixed point belay techniques. Many guides are beginning to employ these techniques on ice climbs and on sketchy alpine climbs.

Essentially a fixed point belay is a lead belay directly off the anchor, as opposed to the more standard belay technique of operating a device off one's harness. The idea is that a lead fall simply doesn't impact  the belayer the same way that a lead fall impacts him or her in a normal setting.

At a guide training in 2008, a number of our guides experimented with this technique, finding mixed results.  We found that both a tube style device and a munter-hitch worked well, but not so much for a GriGri.  Assisted locking devices seem to transfer a lot more foce into the falling person and without movement in the anchor, this resulted in a painful fall for our leader.

The Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG) has recently put out a video on this particular technique.  It is a very comprehensive video on the subject. And it also is set-up in such a way that I can't embed it.  So I've linked it below

 

http://vimeo.com/44869774

 

-- Jason D. Martin