June 30 - July 2, 2007

On August 12, 1907, the first ascent of Mt. Garibaldi was completed by A. Dalton, W. Dalton, A. King, T. Pattison, J. Trorey and G. Warren. They had boarded a steamship to Squamish (known as Newport in those days), hiked into the Squamish Valley and followed the Cheekye River towards Garibaldi. They bushwhacked straight up to Brohm Ridge, and climbed the summit from the north. From their camp, they described the peak as "some terrible monarch of the skies not to be approached by man". Their trip took 8 days in total, and they endured the usual coastal challenges of bush and bad weather. Dalton Dome, Atwell Peak, Mt. Pattison, Mt. Trorey and the Warren Glacier are all features in modern day Garibaldi Park that were named after these early climbers.

Their ascent was a milestone for mountaineering in British Columbia. Garibaldi, which at the time was thought to be 10,000 feet high, was one of the first significant high summits climbed near Vancouver, and the ascent opened local climbers? eyes to the possibilities of climbing the other big peaks in the Coast Mountains.

To celebrate the 100th anniversary of this historic climb, I will be leading an ascent of Garibaldi where we will be using clothing typical of mountaineers in 1907 to recreate the style of the first ascent.

We will hike past Red Heather meadows, the site of the BCMC?s first official summer camp in 1910, to Elfin Lakes, the site of the Club?s second camp in 1911. We will continue onwards and camp near Opal Cone, and climb the peak via the Warren Glacier route. The dates for the trip will be June 30 - July 2nd, and the grade of the trip will be a C4.

Although we will use historical clothing, we will use modern gear such as boots, ropes, tents, stoves, packs, etc. If anyone would like to bring historic gear, such as a wooden ice axe, it would contribute to the historical theme of the trip. I will be carrying the actual axe used by Mr. Trorey on the first ascent of the peak one hundred years ago.

The trip will be limited to 20 participants, and participants must be fit, be current BCMC members, and be experienced in glacier travel. Participants must also wear historical clothing for the entire three day trip. No modern clothing is permitted! You will not be allowed past the parking lot if you bring any gore-tex, fleece, nylon, windstopper, etc. Historical clothing consisted of the following items:

• Wool shirts with buttons, collar, front pocket (i.e. a checked lumberjack?s shirt)
  
• Tweed jackets
  
• Knickers, baggy style with overhangs at the knee
  
• Suspenders, not belts
  
• High woolen socks
  
• Wool over socks instead of gaitors
  
• Handkerchief for the neck
  
• Felt hat with a brim
  
• Canvas wind pants
  
• Wool gloves & wool toque
  
• Mosquito nets
  
• Metal rimmed sun glasses

If the weather forecast is poor, we will reschedule for the following weekend (as a 3 day trip).

I have read several old trip reports and would be happy to answer any questions about suitable clothing for the trip. Women used to wear long wool dresses to the mountains, but the more serious female climbers wore wool shirts and knickers much like the men.

Please call Todd Ponzini at 604-408-9617 to reserve a spot on the trip, and start sewing!