See Alpine Select route #150: "One of the most popular north face ice climbs in the Cascades, with fine scenery, superb position and short-lived difficulties".
Weekend ascent of Mt. Baker via the North Ridge. Plan is to drive as high as possible up Glacier Creek Road on Saturday morning. From the parking spot, we will hike to the top of Heliotrope Ridge and bivy nearby. Early morning start on Sunday in order to traverse the Coleman Glacier, gain the lower section of the North Ridge, and then climb steep snow and several ice pitches to the summit. Descent to bivy sites via Coleman-Deming route.
The North Ridge includes two (or more) pitches of technical ice climbing (approx. WI2+ to WI3). The route also has inherent potential crevasse and rock/ice-fall hazards, as well as possibility of altitude-induced disorders.
Trip organizer will supply some of the group gear, including map, GPS, satellite messenger and first aid kit. Shared tents, stoves and ropes will be organized once the trip participants are finalized.
Each trip participant needs to provide his/her own: helmet, harness, steel crampons, ice axe, 2nd ice tool, belay/rappel device, crevasse rescue gear (pulley, carabiners, sewn slings/webbing/cord), warm & weatherproof clothing, enough food and hydration to stay on the move for 8-12 hours at a time.
We may also need snowshoes, depending on the conditions that weekend.
Evacuation- and medical-Insurance coverage for the United States highly recommended.
Don't forget to pack your passport!
NOTES
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