Gauging interest in a trip up to Chilko lake in the Cariboo

Access via Taseko lake road. Camp at Nu Chugh Beinz Campground. (8+ hr drive), weather dependent.

Been on the list for quite a while.

Found a water taxi from the local first nations that's willing to ferry us across. This saves a day of travel and 23-27kms of paddling to Franklyn arm, with pickup and drop off from the campground. So its pretty much drive up, camp the night and go in the next morning.

Full glacier gear is required. Rope, Crampons, ice axe, harness, traxion etc.

The tickletoeteaser tower is also an interesting objective if any climbers want to go. Could warrant a side trip if time allows.

5 days in and out. (Thursday -Monday), or (Friday - Tuesday)

A recent unsuccessful trip report from July 9 during the heat wave of this year states the approach as overgrown and slow. So be prepared for some schwackin. From the dock to the base of the Good Hope glacier measures 4.34kms with about 700m elevation gain. So not terrible in this regard.

Historically there has been minimal to no rain at the end of September in the area, however temperatures are around 0 at night so bring layers.

We will have to see what the recent landslide events will do for access. 

Taken from Bivouavc:

Access: From Williams Lake drive to Chilko Lake. Launch canoes or kayaks, and paddle down to Franklyn arm. Land at just west of mouth of Good Hope creek.  

The Good Hope Creek route is the easiest route on the mountain, and is fairly safe and straightforward all the way.

It usually takes 2 days from the end of Franklin Arm on the lake. Starting from the lake, find the ruins of an old wooden building and wharf, just west of the mouth of Good Hope Creek. Next, hike up 2000 feet through the wooded slopes west of the creek to reach the meadows at 5900 feet, below the Good Hope Glacier. This is a good camping spot, with lots of flowers and little waterfalls.

On the second day ascend up the glacier. You'll probably want crampons on the lower parts of the glacier in later summer, since the glacier will be bare ice. Once on the snow, it is advisable to be roped up at all times, due to the thin snow bridges over deep crevasses.

At the head of the Good Hope glacier, at 8850', you reach a col where the Good Hope Glacier meets the Glasgow glacier. I refer to this as the "standard" col, where all three routes on Good Hope meet.

Above the standard col, go up the obvious steep snow gullies to reach the summit. Times I've done this, the snow has usually been soft enough for boot kicking.

It took us 7 hours return to climb the peak from our camp in the meadows.