Disillusion Peak lies just NW of Rexford. We will approach it from Centre Creek, climbing up Guardian Peak, and then up the East ridge of Disillusion. 

It is only 3.5km distance and 1200m elevation gain to the peak, but this trip is considerably more challenging than the distance suggests. It begins with 1.5km of possibly thick bushwacking, including a crossing of Centre Creek (might need to get wet). There is then some nice scrambling and climbing up Guardian peak (6ish pitches, mostly low 5th). Finally, there is 350m of climbing on the East Ridge of Disillusion. Beckey describes it as "largely class 4, with short difficult class 5 steps and minor brush."

Participants should have some experience multipitch climbing, preferably in the alpine, and experience hiking off trail. Moving efficiently is important for completing this trip, so efficient belay transitions, simul-climbing when appropriate, and efficiently transitioning between roped and unroped climbing will be important. Feel free to sign up even if you're unsure of your experience, just answer the trip questions accurately. We may change to a more moderate objective if needed base on the weather and group experience level.

Beta:

• Map
• Beckey Cascade Alpine Guide Vol 3, page 171.
• My trip report for Guardian Peak
• Song's trip report for Guardian Peak
  

Meet at Chevron at Dominion & Boundary at 5am.