As weather and conditions turned us around at Motel 66 2 weeks ago, planning to retry this. Propose Saturday car camp, then an alpine start Sunday morning with hike up to Matier glacier via Joffre Lakes trail 

Approach to Joffre peak will be via the infamous Aussie Couloir. 

Expect a very long day with lots of time in the couloir. You must be experienced and comfortable on steep snow, and ideally this is not your first couloir. If the conditions are not ideal, (very warm weather is predicted) some might leave the skis at the base of the couloir, and boot pack up & down, with crampons and ice axe(es). Eg; option to ski or bootpack - choose your own adventure, judging the snow and terrain in situ. 

Recommend all participants be on skis for efficiency/consistency purposes. 

Know before you go. Have at least AST1 and very good fitness; it will be a big day. Crevasse rescue gear might be wise; regardless, this should not be your first time on a glacier.