High quality gneiss is climbed directly up the fin shaped southeast ridge of Mount Gimli. 

Start climbing left of the pack-stash ledge, up delicate but easy slabs, 20 feet left of the main crack system. Climb the excellent white corner passing a roof with good holds and strenuous pulls out right. 35 meters up, there are about ten slings, with rings, around a flake for a rappel anchor. Better to belay on the ledge a few feet above the slings. Anchor in the main crack on the left. Beware of the hollow horizontal crack that appears to anchor the better part of the ledge.

The second pitch climbs up to the ridge using thin cracks and dark gneiss band holds. About 5.7 to start, then easing up to a notch/Gendarme belay with a slung chock stone.

Pitch three climbs more gorgeous, steep, and tricky banded gneiss. End at a tree and nice ledge on the ridge (5.7, see photo).

Pitch four is again steep and beautiful, with a hard lie back move. End atop the grassy and comfortable "Lunch Ledge" (5.6+, 60 meters).

Pitch five is again fun and exposed for 60 meters to the base of the notorious roof pitch (5.8).

Pitch six starts with a short corner up the roof move. Left around the roof up to a small ledge (5.10a move).

Pitch seven is the last of the fifth class climbing. Two hundred feet, with more nicely sculpted rock, up to a belay below the "diving board" (5.7).

A long stretch of class III ridge leads to Mount Gimli's sub-summit, then a notch, and finally a class II scramble to the true summit.