Somewhere in North Vancouver at 7:30am on Friday July 21st
Research: review pages 160-173 of the Alpine Select (for climbs in SW BC & N WA) and http://www.summitpost.org/tantalus-range/252160
Routes:
a) Serratus: route 14, the West Face Couloir, rated PD 4th class (3-5h) 200m
b) Dione: route 15, the Southeast Face, rated AD 4th class (8-12h) 3km/540m
c) Tantalus: route 20, the Southeast Spur, rated AD+ 4th class (9-12h) 3.5km/550m
Gear: ice axe, crampons, helmet, harness, belay device, 4 Locking carabiners, and 2x 3m 6mm cord are the minimum required gear. You need to have the Crevasse rescue and glacier travel course, experience travelling on glaciers, and scrambling/climbing experience (especially rappelling). You will also need to provide your own tent, camping supplies, and 10 essentials. This is not a trip for beginners.
Plan: we plan to heli in on July 21 at 9:00am. We will stay at the Jim Haberl hut that night and may possibly do Serratus. If we do not do Serratus on the 21st then we will do it on the 22nd. If Serratus is done on the 21st we may do an optional trip over to Alpha. Regardless we are booking the hut for the two nights (21/22). On the 23rd we will be moving over to the area East of Dione to set up camp. We will then summit either Dione or Tantalus that day and the other on the 24th. On the 25th we have the heli booked to pick us up at 4:00pm.
Costs: the cost of the heli is $230 per person (688 for the 3 person unit taxes included). The hut is $15 per night if you have a ACC membership and $25 per night if you do not.
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