Good Hope Creek route is the easiest route on the mountain, and is fairly safe and straightforward all the way.
It usually takes 2 days from the end of Franklin Arm on the lake. Starting from the lake, find the ruins of an old wooden building and wharf, just west of the mouth of Good Hope Creek. Next, hike up 2000 feet through the wooded slopes west of the creek to reach the meadows at 5900 feet, below the Good Hope Glacier. This is a good camping spot, with lots of flowers and little waterfalls.
On the second day ascend up the glacier. You'll probably want crampons on the lower parts of the glacier in later summer, since the glacier will be bare ice. Once on the snow, it is advisable to be roped up at all times, due to the thin snow bridges over deep crevasses.
At the head of the Good Hope glacier, at 8850', you reach a col where the Good Hope Glacier meets the Glasgow glacier. I refer to this as the "standard" col, where all three routes on Good Hope meet.
Above the standard col, go up the obvious steep snow gullies to reach the summit. Times I've done this, the snow has usually been soft enough for boot kicking.
It took us 7 hours return to climb the peak from our camp in the meadows
This discription is from Robin tivy of bivouac. Needed gear is of course crampons clip in or hybrid, harness, at least two locking carabiner and 4 non locking, 2 5m prussik and two personal prussik,120cm continous sling, 5+m webbing, an atc device, and over night backpacking gear. I am buying a new 50m half rope this year but welcome to bring your own rope for gear check the night before we leave.
I live in williams lake so can stay at my house night before/after if wanted.
I'm am looking into an outfitter for a safe place to park and the boat ride to and from.
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