Multi-Pitch Climbing on the Chief/Squamish

Jul 23, 2016 - 5:00 AM
Jul 23, 2016 - 10:00 PM

Organizer Info

Martin Schwarze

Meeting Point

5:00am St Davids Church, Hwy 1 & Taylor Way

Trip Details

Grade:
C5-D5
Category:
Rock Climbing
Requirements:
  • Screening
  • Members Only
Max Participants:4

Trip Description

Max Number: Set to 4 (two pairs of 2 climbers). We will stay together to help each other out in case of any difficulties. The slower team will set the pace.

General Trip Plan: The plan will be to link together a number set of moderate multi-pitch routes on the Chief, up to 5.9(5.10a), to make it up to the 1st Peak. Expect a long day of crack and slab climbing. (16+ pitches)
The rough plan is to start on the South Apron (any free and dry route (5.9 max) such as Diedre, Over the Rainbow), then Boomstick Crack, Butt Light, Raven's Castle up to 1st Peak. There are some options to bail should we progress too slowly or face other difficulties (walk offs at Broadway Ledge, top of Squamish Buttress).

This trip is for BCMC members with experience in multi-pitch climbing and good endurance/stamina, plus have good lead-belay skills. Each participant needs to be comfortable leading at least 5.8 pitches (both crack and run-out slab) on trad. Each pair of climbers will need at least one person that can lead up to 5.10a pitches. The exact route will be decided depending on the lineups and participants. We are going to swing leads in each team.

Preference will be given to BCMC members that have climbed multi-pitch crack/run-out slab routes with me, in the past.

Gear Requirements: All participants must bring their own personal climbing gear... including: harness, belay device, locking biners, slings, climbing shoes, head lamp and helmet (no helmet = no climbing).  Also required are prussik for rappelling, a PAS (personal anchor system) for securing yourself, plenty of water, sunscreen and energy snacks.

Where/When to Meet: Meeting at 5:00 am at the St. David's Church parking lot located near Hwy 1 and Taylor Way, in West Vancouver. We'll aim to get back to the cars by sunset but it may already be dark during the walk off. So, make sure to bring your head lamp.

Please self-organize car pooling to the meeting spot via the "Planning Forum" on top-left of this page.

Emergency Contact Info: Please make sure your Emergency Contact info has been added to your web-account profile.  You can do this by logging into the bcmc.ca website, click on: My Account (top of page)... then click on Edit Emergency Contact (top-left column).  Please re-enter your password to complete the process.  Your emergency contact info is stored *privately* and only made available to those organizing trips *you* choose to attend.

Potential Medical Issues: Any info that should be shared with the organizer(s), please send an email and/or phone ASAP.  For example, if you are very allergic to bee/wasp bites, or you are taking medication that could be vital information to First Aid Responders. Anything you choose to share with me will remain private.

Poor Weather Cancellation: I'll check the weather forecast for where we're going the evening before we meet.  If the weather does NOT seem good enough for reasonably safe climbing then I will announce to all participants that the trip is cancelled.

Participant List

4 / 4
Organizer
Martin Schwarze
78
Attended
0
Joined & Left
0
No-Shows
Co-Organizer
Barnard Foo
71
Attended
7
Joined & Left
1
No-Shows
Confirmed
Slawomir Skoczylas
87
Attended
7
Joined & Left
1
No-Shows
Confirmed
Bala Kumaravelu
109
Attended
3
Joined & Left
1
No-Shows

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