Alpine Practice - Crevasse Rescue Response
Because  certain factors can't be predicted (e.g. weather, conditions), the date of this trip can only be approximate, it may move in either direction, not unlikely on a very short note (1-2 days prior to the actual trip). As long as "registered" list is empty, consider this trip as "standing-by".

NOT A COURSE
For active alpine climbers only.  Assuming one has already received a solid formal alpine training elsewhere, the goal of this session is only to review (and not to learn) fundamental mountaineering skills.

Practice Location: to be determined.

Meeting Location and Time will be emailed to you around noon time two days prior to the trip.

Priority will be given to those who:

• have been a club member for more than a year.

• have been on at least three club trips in the past 12 months.

Skills Required

• Solid Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber.

• Proven basic formal mountaineering course.

• Have completed at least one route from the Alpine Select List .

Agenda

• Alpine knots (12).
• Fall factor and impact forces.
  
• Ultimate backup.
• About glacier travel gear: ropes, snow pickets, ice screws, prusiks, ascenders, ice axes, ski poles, backpack sling, crampons, anchor material.
• Glacier anchors: pickets, snow bollards, ice screws, v-threads. SRENE principle.
• Roping up for glacier travel: 2 and 3-climbers rope teams. Kiwi coil.
• Hauling systems 1:1, 2:1, 3:1 - standard rigging / using TIBLOC.
• Transferring the load from the climber is self-arrest to the anchor: first anchor, ultimate backup, second anchor.
  
• Crevasse Rescue Response Protocol in a three-person rope team.

Personal Gear

• 30-70m 8mm half rope (or else)
• helmet
• harness + belay device (Reverso type)
• carabiners: 4 non-lockers + 5 lockers + 1 large pear shape
• anchor material: cords and slings (Nylon, Dyneema, Spectra)
• two 5-mm prusiks (leg, chest) + one short (ratchet)
  
• Mechanical ascender(s) (e.g. Tiblock, Ropeman) - two will be ideal
  

• rescue pulley

• personal emergency kit incl. medical
• headlamp with spare fresh batteries

IMPORTANT

• if you have previously "bailed" less than a day before the start of, or been a "no show" for any club’s trips in the past 12 months, you need not apply to join this one - you will not get a response.

• if minimum safety levels are not met (because of the bad weather, conditions, etc.) this trip will be canceled, last minute cancellations do occur.

• if you want to receive a response you must clearly answer  ALL "Trip Planning Questions"

• if you haven't received response, check your email in Spam folder (some eager service providers mark club's messages as such ).