Mt. Matier - Northwest Face
Leaving Vancouver on Friday at 15:30, bivy at Motel 66. If freezing levels are not sufficiently low for this face route or if there is a bad cornice above, will climb the NE ridge (route 64, PD+).

Photo: Traversing Northwest face of Matier. August 2012.


TOPO: green line - main route (NW Face), red line - return (NE spur), blue line - NE spur variation. Magenta - approach via Anniversary Glacier.

Lineup
One or two rope teams of two. Must be either two or four climbers (three-person climbing teams will not be accepted).

Meeting Time and Location  will be emailed to you around noon time two days prior to the trip.

Prerequisites

• In the last 12 months must have attended all four sessions of the Alpine Practice Basic Set: Belay, Rappel, Crevasse Rescue Response and Crevasse self-rescue.

• Proven formal mountaineering course.

• Avalanche rescue response training.

• Have successfully completed at least one route from Alpine Select List

Personal Gear - Main

• snowshoes

• crampons

• snow shovel

• avalanche transceiver

• avalanche probe

• 60m 8mm half rope (or else)

• helmet

• harness + belay device (Reverso type)
• ice tool (hammer) + long regular ice axe
  

• carabiners: 5 lockers + 1 large pear shape

• anchor material: cords and slings (Nylon, Dyneema, Spectra)

• two 5-mm prusiks + 1 short (ratchet)
  

• two short (61cm) snow pickets with runners attached

• rescue pulley
• mechanical ascender(s) (Tibloc, Ropeman, etc.)

• personal emergency kit incl. medical

• headlamp with spare fresh batteries

Personal Gear - Extra

• PLB/SPOT/GPS - recommended
  
• shock-absorbing sling(s) - recommended
  

• winter camping - tent, stove, sleeping bag etc.
  

IMPORTANT

• if you have previously "bailed" less than a day before the start of, or been a "no show" for any club’s trip in the past 12 months, you need not apply to join this one - you will not get a response.

• if minimum safety levels are not met (because of the bad weather, conditions, etc.) this trip will be canceled, last minute cancellations do occur.

• if you want to receive a response you must clearly answer  all "Trip Planning Questions"

• if you haven't received response, check your email in Spam folder.

Links
Weather: http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Matier/forecasts/2783
Avalanche Info: http://www.avalanche.ca/forecasts/sea-to-sky
About Matier: http://bivouac.com/MtnPg.asp?MtnId=46