Alpine Practice - Belay
Date of the trip is approximate, it may move in either direction, and will certainly change if the conditions are not good, need:

• P.O.P. < 30%
• total precipitation < 2 mm
• wind speed < 15 km/h
  
  

NOT A COURSE
For active alpine climbers only.  Assuming one has already received a solid formal alpine training elsewhere, the goal of this session is only to review (and not to learn) fundamental mountaineering skills.

Practice Location: to be determined.

Meeting Location and Time will be emailed to you around noon time two days prior to the trip.

Priority will be given to those who:

• have been a club member for more than a year.

• have been on at least three club trips in the past 12 months.

Skills Required

• Solid Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber.

• Proven basic formal mountaineering course.

• Have completed at least one route from the Alpine Select List .

Agenda1 - Main

• Two top causes of all mountaineering accidents.

• Fundamental alpine knots (12).

• Climbing ropes review: types (single, twin, double), their purpose and characteristics (length, diameter, static and dynamic elongation, impact force).

• Coiling a climbing rope.

• Shortening up the rope - Kiwi coil.

• Dynamic and static forces in and after a fall. Fall factor.

• Ultimate backup.

• Tying in.

• Partner check.

• Alpine belay fundamentals: rope work - taking in and paying out.

• Belay voice commands.

• Belay anchors and SRENE principle.

• Clipping in to belay station.

• Belay systems: off-harness (ABC), redirect, off-anchor.

• When things go wrong: locking belay device, belay escape, belay re-enter.

Agenda 2 - Extra

• End of the pitch protocol.

• Swapping the lead.

• Keeping the lead.

• Boot-ax belay.

• Running belay.

• Hip belay.

• Top-rope belay.

• Top-rope lowering.

• Belaying the leader: single rope / twin rope / double rope.

• Belaying the second, handling the rope.

• Independent and simultaneous belaying of two seconds in Reverso mode.

• Drill - alpine multipitch stint.

Personal Gear - Main

• 30-70m 8mm half rope (or else)

• helmet

• harness + belay device (Reverso type)

• carabiners: 4 non-lockers + 4 lockers + 1 large pear shape

• anchor material: cords and slings (Nylon, Dyneema, Spectra)

• two 5-mm prusiks + 1 spare

• personal emergency kit incl. medical

• headlamp with spare fresh batteries

Personal Gear - Extra

• alpine rock protection (cams, nuts, pitons)

• rescue pulley

• mechanical ascender (Tibloc, Ropeman, etc.)

• PLB/SPOT/GPS

• regular straight ice axe

• ice tool - hammer

• rappel gloves

IMPORTANT

• if you have previously "bailed" less than a day before the start of, or been a "no show" for any club’s trips in the past 12 months, you need not apply to join this one - you will not get a response.

• if minimum safety levels are not met (because of the bad weather, conditions, etc.) this trip will be canceled, last minute cancellations do occur.

• if you want to receive a response you must clearly answer  ALL "Trip Planning Questions"

• if you haven't received response, check your email in Spam folder (some eager service providers mark club's messages as such ).