The Kautz route is an intermediate route on Mt. Rainier involving glacier travel, steep snow, and a couple of pitches of 50-60 degree ice / snow climbing. The crux is the Kautz ice chute, which is a couple of pitches long. At this time of year likely to be more snow covered than bare ice.

Depending on conditions, team preferences, the tentative plan would be to drive down on Monday, get permits etc. and bivy at Paradise. Alpine start Tuesday to reach high camp at around 10,000ft. Wednesday is summit day, with option of descending back to Paradise in one push, or spending an extra night at high camp.

Depending on weather forecast, the schedule may be brought forward / backwards a day. If the weather forecast for the week of June 1 is poor, then the trip would be rescheduled for June 8 or June 15.

Required skills:
- basic mountaineering skills (self arrest, crampon technique etc.)
- glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills
- AST 1 or better
- low-angle ice climbing skills

Gear list :
- ice screws
- 2 ice tools + mountaineering axe
- rope, prussics, beaners for glacier travel
- snow pickets
- crampons + boots suitable for ice climbing (rigid soles, front points)
- helmet
- mountaineering camping gear
- avi gear (beacon, probe, shovel)
- your usual warm clothing, first aid kit, food etc.

Vid of Kautz route can be found here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NiuEheZzqJ0

Any questions/comments/suggestions, feel free to contact me at quih66 at gmail dot com or call/text at 778-994-3595.