Alpine 101 - Climbing Steep Snow

Jun 13, 2015 - 8:00 AM
Jun 13, 2015 - 10:00 PM

Organizer Info

Serguei Okountsev

Meeting Point

08:00 a.m. @ Keith's Hut

Trip Details

Grade:
B5
Category:
Instructional Program
Requirements:
  • Screening
  • Members Only
Max Participants:8

Trip Description

Climbing Steep Snow
A beginner-friendly, fourth and last training session of the 
Alpine 101 Course . Active club members have priority.

Location: Will start at 08:00 a.m. from Keith's Hut. Eight hours session. Participants can choose either arrive on their own on the day of training, or stay in the hut the night before. Feel free to use Trip Planning Forum to self-coordinate carpool and hike-in.

Prerequisites: None

Session Fee: $0.00

First priority is given to those who

  • Have participated in community-type trips (e.g. trail building)
  • Have been a club member for at least 1 year.
  • Have been on at least three club outdoors trips in the past 12 months.
  • Have zero bailing incidents on club's records.

 Agenda

  • Alpine knots (12).
  • Fall factor and impact forces.
  • Ultimate backup.
  • About climbing equipment: gloves, boots, crampons, ropes, snow pickets, runners, ice screws, mechanical ascenders, ice tools, ice axes, leashes, nylon cords, sewn slings, prusiks, shock absorbing slings.
  • Alpine walk.
  • Crampon walk with an ice ax: climbing, downclimbing, traversing.
  • Self arrest with an ice ax: four base types of falls.
  • Boot-ax belay.
  • Snow pickets: placement, 1,2,3-point anchors and SRENE principle.
  • Using regular ice ax as snow anchor.
  • Snow bollards.
  • Roping up.
  • Shortening/extending the rope.
  • Climbing voice commands.
  • Climbing fixed rope.
  • Running belays. Passing the anchor.
  • Climbing in rope teams of two: belaying the leader, belaying the second, pitching, cleaning, end of the pitch protocol.
  • Downclimbing.
  • Traversing.
  • About glissading.

 Personal Gear

  • 30-70 m 8-mm half rope (or else)
  • helmet
  • harness + belay device (Reverso type)
  • crampons
  • ice ax with a (accordion) leash on a locker (plus hammer ice tool  if you have)
  • carabiners: 4 non-lockers + 4 lockers + 1 large pear shape
  • shock abosrbing sling (optional)
  • anchor material: cords and slings (Nylon, Dyneema, Spectra)
  • 2 5-mm prusiks + 1 short
  • mechanical ascender (e.g. Tiblock, Ropeman)
  • two 61-cm snow pickets with runners attached
  • personal emergency kit incl. medical
  • headlamp with spare fresh batteries

B.N.

  • if minimum safety levels are not met (because of weather, conditions, etc.) the trip will be canceled, last minute cancellations do occur.
  • if you want to receive a response you must clearly answer  ALL "Trip Planning Questions"
  • if you haven't received response, check your email in Spam folder (some eager service providers mark club's messages as such ).

Participant List

7 / 8
Organizer
Serguei Okountsev
57
Attended
0
Joined & Left
0
No-Shows
Co-Organizer
Vera Yin
49
Attended
5
Joined & Left
0
No-Shows
Confirmed
Joanne Boutin
34
Attended
2
Joined & Left
0
No-Shows
Confirmed
Brian Muske
16
Attended
2
Joined & Left
0
No-Shows
Confirmed
Evgeny Sorkin
68
Attended
8
Joined & Left
1
No-Shows
Confirmed
Rick Ketler
19
Attended
0
Joined & Left
0
No-Shows
Confirmed
Brad Riffal
39
Attended
1
Joined & Left
1
No-Shows
Confirmed
Afshin Ardalan
46
Attended
11
Joined & Left
0
No-Shows

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