Bivy @ Motel 66, return via the tourist route.

Skills Required

• Must have previously climbed with organizer, no exceptions.
• Solid Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber
• Proven basic formal mountaineering course.
• Glacier Rescue Response training.
• Avalanche Rescue Response training.
• Must have completed at least one winter PD ice/snow/rock route from  Alpine Select List

 Personal Gear

• avalanche beacon
• probe
• snow shovel
• snowshoes (?)
• half 8mm 70m dynamic dry rope (or else)
• helmet
• harness
• ice tools (hammer + adze)  if you lead OR regular axe + hammer if you second
• 2+ ice screws
• 2 short (61cm) snow pickets with runners attached
• antibot steel crampons
• anchor material (Nylon cords / Dyneema, Spectra, Dynex runners)
• 2 5-mm leg prusiks + one short ratchet + one spare
• rescue pulley
• ascender (Tibloc or jumar)
• minimal rock protection set if you have: passive pro only, pitons preferred
• personal emergency kit incl. medical, space blanket, flares (if you have)
• headlamp with spare fresh batteries
• PLB/SPOT/GPS (if you have)

 NOTES

• if you have previously "bailed" less than a day before the start of, or been a "no show" for, one of the trip organizer's previous trips, you need not apply to join this one - you will not get a response.
• trip without Approved Participants is subject to change.
• if minimum safety levels are not met (because of weather, conditions, etc.) the trip will be canceled, last minute cancellations do occur.
• if you want to receive a response you must clearly answer  ALL "Trip Planning Questions".
• if you haven't received response, check your email in Spam folder (some eager service providers mark club's messages as such ).

LINKS
Joffre on Bivouac : http://bivouac.com/MtnPg.asp?MtnId=45
Weather: www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Matier/forecasts/2783
Avalanche: http://www.avalanche.ca/