Crevasse Rescue Response

NOT A COURSE
For active alpine climbers. Assuming one has already received solid formal alpine training elsewhere, the goal is only to review (and not to learn) fundamental mountain travel skills.

Location: TBD (can be as far as Pemberton, e.g. Anniversary Glacier)

Agenda

• Warm up : knots (12), fall factor, SRENE, ultimate backup.
• Elements of Glacier Travel - roping up: 2 and 3-climbers rope teams.
• Self arrest with an ice axe - head uphill facing down.
• Protection on ice: ice screws and v-threads.
• Protection on snow: pickets and snow bollards.
• N-point anchor systems on glaciers.
• Hauling systems 1:1, 2:1, 3:1 - standard rigging / using TIBLOC.
• Crevasse Rescue Response Protocol in a three-person rope team.

Skills Required

• Solid Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber
• Proven basic formal mountaineering course.
• Must have completed at least one PD route from Alpine Select List

Personal Gear

• snowshoes
• 30-70m 8mm half rope (or else)
• helmet
• harness + belay device
• carabiners: 2 non-lockers + 4 lockers + 1 large pear shape
• ice axe OR a pair of ice tools (hammer + adze)
• 2 ice screws + v-thread tool 
• 2+ short (61cm) snow pickets with runners attached
• crampons
• anchor material : cords and slings (Nylon, Dyneema, Spectra )
• 2 5-mm prusiks + 1 spare
• rescue pulley
• Tibloc
• (minimal) alpine rock protection set if you have
• personal emergency kit incl. medical, space blanket, flares (if you have)
• headlamp with spare fresh batteries
• PLB/SPOT/GPS (if you have)

B.N.

• if you have previously "bailed" less than a day before the start of, or been a "no show" for, one of the trip organizer's previous trips, you need not apply to join this one - you will not get a response.
• trip without Approved Participants is subject to change.
• if minimum safety levels are not met (because of weather, conditions, etc.) the trip will be canceled, last minute cancellations do occur.
• if you want to receive a response you must clearly answer  ALL "Trip Planning Questions".
• if you haven't received response, check your email in Spam folder (some eager service providers mark club's messages as such ).