The (tentative) plan:

September 13 - drive past Pemberton, hike up to Wedgemount Lake

September 14 - hike over the Weart-Cook col and approach base of Weart's North Face, cross bergshrund and ascend North Face, descend to Lake

September 15 - hike down trail to vehicles, drive home

This will involve a long approach and likely difficult climbing conditions, with the potential for significant objective dangers.

The trip will need good weather and the route itself will need good conditions (we will have to observe the conditions from the base of the route). The climbing group will need to be small in order to be relatively fast. If the POP for the trip dates is 30% or greater on the day before the start date then the trip will be rescheduled (if possible).

Please consider NOT seeking to join this trip unless you have conducted your own research into the climb, and compared that with your own experience and skill. At a minimum, you will have the fitness, equipment, skills and experience to perform all of the following:

(a) wilderness camping in the snow;

(b) belayed climbing;

(c) rappelling:

(d) lead climbing up to WI3 and 5.6;

(e) glacier travel and crevasse rescue; and,

(f) 1000+ metres of ascent per day.

If we have not climbed together before, and you want to receive a response from the Trip Organizer, you must answer the question for participants (see right-hand side of Trip Page).

All participants must bring their personal climbing gear (harness, belay device, locking biner, mountaineering boots, helmet, crampons, ice axe and/or ice tools, glacier travel and crevasse rescue gear).

Logistics are self-organized. Please use the Planning Forum attached to this trip page to organize rides to the meeting point and to let others know whether you can drive to trailhead or not. Please also indicate if you can provide a tent (and how many can fit inside) and a stove to share with other trip participants.

Please update your BCMC Account Profile with your emergency contact information. To do that you have to login on the website, click the "My account" button at top right, then click on "edit profile information", then select the "private information" tab and enter your emergency contact information -- this info will stay in your profile and is made available to a trip organizer automatically -- it saves time at the meeting point.